San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting

San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting

10-12"
$39.00
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San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting
  • San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting
  • San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting
  • San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting
San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting

San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting

Trichocereus pachanoi × T. peruvianus (syn. Echinopsis pachanoi × E. macrogona)

$39.00

Unrooted cutting, you root it (cut end already healed)
Size10-12"
Pack size

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Description

Trichocereus pachanoi × T. peruvianus (trik-oh-SEER-ee-us pah-CHAH-noy × peh-roo-vee-AH-nus) (syn. Echinopsis pachanoi × E. macrogona), the garden cross of San Pedro and Peruvian Torch, is a vigorous blue-green column whose spines land between its parents, usually longer and more prominent than a pure San Pedro but shorter than a stout Peruvian Torch. Expect roughly 6 to 12 inches of new column in a warm season, branching into a candelabra with age.

Both parents come from the Andes of Ecuador and Peru, where they grow on rocky mountain slopes; the hybrid itself is a nursery cross, grown as an architectural landscape column.

Every cutting comes off mature hybrid mother plants we grow, so it is thick, vigorous, and true to that mother, with a cut end that calluses fast and roots reliably. A cutting is a clone of its mother, so what roots is exactly what you see, not the lottery you get from hybrid seed.

This listing is an unrooted cutting, a fresh, callused segment you root yourself.

Sold strictly as an ornamental specimen.

Tending to your San Pedro x Peruvian Torch Hybrid Cactus Cutting

Hardiness Zone: zone 9b (tender end, hardy when dry)

A hybrid can be as tender as its softer parent, so we publish this cross to the cautious end. San Pedro is hardy kept dry to about USDA zone 8b, but Peruvian Torch only to about 9b, so we rate the hybrid at roughly zone 9b, taking brief dips into the low-to-mid 20s F only when bone dry. As with all of these cacti the real danger is wet cold, not dry cold, so a freeze on soggy soil is what does the damage. In colder or wetter zones, grow it in a pot and shelter it over winter, kept dry so it takes the cold better.
Light: full sun, shade in heat

This is a sun-loving cactus that wants roughly 6 to 8 hours of direct light a day, and how you give it changes how it grows. Its parents come from the high Andes, where the sun is strong but the air is cool and often hazy, so it loves bright light yet can scorch under relentless, low-elevation afternoon sun. In full sun an established plant stays stocky and firm, with tighter ribs and stronger spines. In part shade it grows faster and greener but softer, and too little light stretches it into thin, pale, weak growth (etiolation). Green tissue that has not seen strong sun will scar permanently if you move it into full sun too quickly, so acclimate over 2 to 4 weeks, starting with morning sun or 30 to 50 percent shade cloth. In very hot, dry regions a little midsummer afternoon shade protects even mature potted plants. Indoors, give it your brightest south-facing window or a grow light.
Water: soak, dry

The rule is soak, then dry. Water deeply so the whole root zone is wet, then wait until the top inch or two of mix is dry to the touch before watering again. In warm growing weather, around 70 to 90 F, that often means about every 10 to 14 days in a pot, and less in the ground, so go by how fast your soil dries rather than the calendar. As temperatures fall below about 60 F in autumn the plant slows toward dormancy, so taper off, and through a cool winter keep it nearly dry. Water sitting in cold soil is the fastest route to root rot. In humid climates, water less, lean on a fast-draining mix and good airflow, and water in the morning so the plant dries quickly.
Soil: gritty (fast-draining)

Fast-draining and gritty. A cactus mix cut with extra pumice or perlite keeps roots happy and rot away.
Fertilizing: spring to summer

Feed only while it is actively growing, roughly spring through early fall. A balanced or low-nitrogen cactus fertilizer diluted to about half strength, applied every three to four weeks during that window, is plenty. Always fertilize onto already-moist soil rather than dry roots, and water normally afterward. As growth slows in fall, stop feeding entirely and give it nothing through winter, when the plant is resting and cannot use it. Too much nitrogen pushes soft, fast growth that flops and marks easily, so err on the lean side. These cacti are adapted to poor ground and do far better underfed than overfed.
Re-potting: spring, snug

These columns need repotting only every two to three years, or when roots fill the pot and begin escaping the drainage holes. Spring, as the plant wakes into active growth, is the ideal time. Move up just one pot size, since an oversized pot holds water the roots cannot reach and invites rot, so a snug fit is safer than a roomy one. Repot into dry, fast-draining mix and wait about a week before the first watering. That pause lets any roots nicked during the move dry and callus rather than sit wet and rot. Terracotta breathes and dries faster than plastic or glazed pots, which suits a cactus well. To handle a spiny column without injury, wrap it in a few folds of newspaper or a strip of carpet and wear thick gloves.
Propagation: from cuttings

This cross grows easily from cuttings, which is how we keep it true to its mother plant and why our stock looks uniform. To take a cutting, slice cleanly through the column with a sharp, sanitized blade, then stand the cut piece upright somewhere dry, shaded, and airy for one to three weeks until the wound forms a firm, dry callus. Planting before it calluses invites rot, so do not rush this step. Once callused, set the cut end an inch or two into dry, gritty mix, just deep enough to stand on its own, and keep it in bright, indirect light. Hold off on water for the first week or two, then water lightly and let it dry completely between waterings, so roots follow the moisture without rotting the base. In summer warmth a cutting often roots in two to four weeks; in cool weather it may take a couple of months or simply wait for spring, which is normal. A gentle tug tells you when roots have taken hold, since resistance means it is anchored.

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